How to apply a
cleansing oil

A cleansing oil works on a simple principle: like dissolves like. It dissolves sebum, sunscreen filters, long-wear makeup and the oil-soluble impurities that build up over the day. That doesn’t mean it leaves a heavy film or necessarily causes breakouts. It all depends on its formula, how it emulsifies when rinsed and how you fit it into your routine.

How to apply a cleansing oil in 4 steps

The key point: a cleansing oil is always applied to dry skin, with dry hands. That direct contact with makeup, SPF and sebum is what allows it to dissolve them properly. If you start on a wet face, the oil emulsifies too quickly and its makeup-removing power can be less effective.

DEAR KLAIRSGentle Black Deep Cleansing Oil€25.90View product →

An oil that emulsifies — cleansing oil to massage onto dry skin, which turns into a milky emulsion on contact with water to dissolve makeup and SPF. No artificial fragrance, vegan. 🛒 Add to cart

1. Dispense the oil onto dry hands

Take one to two pumps, depending on the product’s texture and how much makeup you’re wearing. Skin with just SPF often needs less product than full makeup with foundation, mascara and long-wear lipstick.

Warm the oil between your palms for a few seconds. This makes it more comfortable to spread and limits the temptation to add too much product. A good cleansing oil should glide easily, without you needing to pull on your skin.

2. Massage your face without rubbing

Place your hands on your dry face and massage with slow, circular movements. Start with the cheeks, forehead and chin, then gently focus on the sides of the nose, the jawline and the areas where SPF or makeup clings the most.

Spend about 30 to 60 seconds on this massage. The goal isn’t to drag it out, but to give sunscreen filters, foundation and sebum time to mix with the oil. On skin prone to visible pores or blackheads, work the T-zone gently: vigorous massage doesn’t extract comedones and can make redness worse.

For the eyes, close them well and pass over the lashes and lids with very light pressure. If you wear waterproof mascara, hold your fingers on your lashes for a moment before sliding the oil downwards. Avoid aggressive back-and-forth movements: this area is thin, sensitive and more prone to irritation.

3. Emulsify with a little lukewarm water

This is the step that turns an effective oil into a truly comfortable cleanse. Lightly wet your hands with lukewarm water, then massage your face again. The oil then turns into a milky emulsion, often white or slightly cloudy.

This emulsion lets the water carry away the dissolved residue. Add water gradually for a few seconds, covering everywhere, including near the hairline and under the jaw. An oil that emulsifies well rinses off without a noticeable greasy film and without a suffocated-skin feeling.

Avoid very hot water. It doesn’t remove makeup any better and can weaken a skin barrier already sensitised by actives, the climate, dehydration or over-frequent cleansing.

4. Rinse, then do a second cleanse

Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water until your skin no longer feels slippery. You can then use a gentle water-based cleanser, as a gel, a soft foam or a cream cleanser. This is the principle of the Korean double cleanse: the oil removes oily impurities, then the water-based cleanser removes the last water-soluble residue, such as sweat, dust and traces of emulsion.

BEAUTY OF JOSEONGreen Plum Refreshing Cleanser€17.90View product →

For the second cleanse — gel cleanser with a slightly acidic pH, made with green plum water, fragrance-free, hypoallergenic and vegan. 🛒 Add to cart

The second cleanse is especially useful in the evening if you wear sunscreen or makeup, or if your skin is combination to oily. In the morning, however, a cleansing oil is generally not necessary. Rinsing with water or a very gentle cleanser is enough, depending on your skin’s needs.

Cleansing oil and problem skin: should you be afraid of oil?

Oily, acne-prone or blemish-prone skin can absolutely use a cleansing oil. The key is to choose a formula designed for the face that emulsifies properly, and not to skip the rinse or the evening water-based cleanser.

The idea that every oil clogs pores is too simplistic. Breakouts depend on many factors: excess sebum, inflammation, hormones, unsuitable occlusive products, incomplete cleansing or, on the contrary, over-stripping. A well-formulated cleansing oil can help remove stubborn SPF without extra rubbing, which is often better for inflamed skin.

If you’re dealing with acne, favour a light texture and avoid stretching the massage out for several minutes in the hope of deep-cleaning your pores. Visible results come more from a consistent routine, with gentle cleansing, targeted actives such as salicylic acid or niacinamide depending on tolerance, and daily sun protection.

Sensitive or redness-prone skin also benefits from checking the ingredient list. A fragrance-free formula, or one with few essential oils, is often more reassuring. If your skin reacts easily, introduce the product gradually and do a patch test on a small area before using it fully for the first time.

The mistakes that stop a cleansing oil from working well

The first mistake is applying it to a damp face. The oil then doesn’t have time to properly dissolve stubborn textures. The second is rinsing straight away, without massaging or emulsifying: you lose much of its benefit.

Another common misstep: using too much. More oil doesn’t mean more effective makeup removal. One to two pumps are usually enough. If you have to keep adding pumps, it’s sometimes a sign that the texture you chose lacks slip or that you’re wearing very full-coverage makeup.

Finally, don’t confuse squeaky skin with clean skin. After double cleansing, your face should feel fresh, comfortable and supple. If it feels tight, stings or turns red, your water-based cleanser may be too stripping, or you may be cleansing too often.

Which type of cleansing oil should you choose?

The right choice depends less on the skin type printed on a label than on your makeup, your sensitivity and your routine. A fluid texture suits those looking for a light feel and a quick rinse very well. A cleansing balm, which melts on contact with the skin, may appeal if you enjoy a more cocooning ritual or if your skin feels uncomfortable.

APLBGlutathione Niacinamide Cleansing Balm€16.90View product →

The balm option — fragrance-free cleansing balm that melts on contact with the skin and emulsifies with water into a milky texture, to apply to a dry face with dry hands. 🛒 Add to cart

Above all, look at how well the formula emulsifies. A cleansing oil that turns milky on contact with water is easier to rinse and fits easily into an evening routine. At Haru & Bom, the approach is precisely to choose your skincare according to what your skin is really going through: excess sebum, dehydration, redness, dark spots or breakouts, rather than generic promises.

If you wear eyelash extensions, also check with the person who applied them. Some adhesives don’t tolerate oily products well and require a specifically compatible makeup remover. In that specific case, it’s better to adapt your routine than risk weakening your extensions.