How to choose a Korean serum —
the complete guide

The first useful reflex is to forget about skin type for a minute. You don't buy a serum for “combination skin”. You buy it to calm breakouts, fade marks, strengthen the skin barrier or restore radiance.

Start by identifying your main goal. Just one, not three. If you want to tackle pores, sensitivity, fine lines and dark spots all at once, you risk spreading yourself too thin or overloading your routine. A good Korean serum is one that does its job well on one clear priority.

To hydrate and plump

Hyaluronic acid remains a safe bet, but it shouldn't be seen as a standalone miracle active. It works best in a formula combined with humectants and barrier-supporting agents. Panthenol, beta-glucans and ceramides are particularly worth considering if your skin is dehydrated or sensitised.

To soothe redness and sensitivity

Centella asiatica is one of the great K-beauty classics. It helps calm, support skin repair and improve comfort. If your skin flushes easily, the right choice isn't necessarily the most powerful serum. It's often the smartest one — the one that rebuilds before it corrects.

For breakouts and visible pores

Niacinamide is a great entry point, especially if you want to regulate sebum, improve the look of pores and support radiance without harshness. Formulas for blemishes may also contain salicylic acid, tea tree or purifying botanical extracts.

For dark spots and dullness

Vitamin C is worth considering, but it isn't always the best first choice for sensitive skin. If your skin is reactive, niacinamide or gentler brightening actives may be more comfortable. Retinol can also help with cell renewal, but needs to be introduced gradually.

Oily skin generally prefers light, non-occlusive, fast-absorbing serums. Gel, essence-serum or watery fluid textures are often more pleasant. Dry skin is better off with more comforting serums that nourish or repair.

For sensitive skin, pay attention to the concentration of actives, the presence of fragrance and the overall combination of your routine. An excellent serum can become a problem if it's added to a routine already loaded with exfoliants or retinoids.

The first mistake is following the trend before the diagnosis. An active that's gone viral on social media isn't automatically right for your skin. The second is layering serums with similar functions in the hope of speeding up results — you often get the opposite effect.

Another common pitfall: focusing only on the percentage on the label. A well-built formula with a consistent dosage can outperform an ultra-concentrated serum that’s poorly tolerated. Finally, many people switch serums too quickly. For dark spots, pores or texture, it often takes several weeks of consistency.

You don't need to be a chemist. First look at the first few ingredients, which give you an idea of the product's base. Then check for the key actives you're looking for. Finally, see whether the formula also includes supporting ingredients such as humectants, soothing agents or barrier repairers.

This simple read lets you tell a purely marketing-driven serum from a coherent formula. In an expert selection like the one offered by Haru & Bom, that formula coherence is precisely one of the criteria that matter.

Anti-blemish serum — a K-beauty benchmark

COSRX — BHA exfoliator BHA Blackhead Power Liquid 4% salicylic acid that penetrates pores to decongest, reduce blackheads and balance sebum. The global K-beauty benchmark for oily and acne-prone skin. 23,90 € View product 🛒 Add

Brightening serum — dark spots and radiance

ANUA — Brightening serum Niacinamide 10% + TXA 4% Serum 10% niacinamide + 4% tranexamic acid to fade dark spots, minimise pores and even out skin tone. Lightweight texture, fragrance-free, safe for sensitive skin. 24,90 € View product 🛒 Add

Soothing hydrating serum — sensitive skin

Dear Klairs Rich Moist Soothing Serum 17,45 € View product →

Deep, fragrance-free hydration — Beta-glucan, hyaluronic acid and allantoin to soothe and nourish without harshness. The go-to serum for sensitive, reactive skin.

Radiance serum — luminous skin every day

ANUA Peach 70 Niacin Serum 25,90 € View product →

70% peach water + niacinamide — Hydrates, brightens and regulates sebum in an ultra-light texture. Ideal for combination skin seeking radiance without a greasy finish. 🛒 Add to cart

Serum goes on after cleansing and, depending on your routine, after a toner or an essence, then before your cream. A hydrating or soothing serum can often be used morning and evening. A more active serum sometimes needs a gradual frequency — two to three evenings a week to start.

Also think about compatibility with the rest of your routine. If you already use a strong exfoliant, there's no point choosing an aggressive serum “for a boost”. Skin loves strategy more than excess. And in the morning, sun protection remains non-negotiable — especially on Reunion Island.