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July 10, 2026 · 2 min read

AHA, BHA or PHA: which should you choose?

AHA, BHA or PHA: which should you choose?
K-Beauty · Guide · Exfoliation

AHA, BHA or PHA —
which one to choose for your skin

You've spotted an AHA toner, a BHA serum, a PHA pad — and you can't decide. Good news: there's no "best" acid for everyone. The right choice depends on your skin type, your tolerance and your priorities.

⏱ 8 min read · Exfoliation · Comparison · K-Beauty

AHA, BHA or PHA: what's the difference?

They're all chemical exfoliants that help the skin shed dead cells. What sets them apart is their molecular size, where they act and how gentle they are.

AHAs (glycolic, lactic) work on the surface — radiance, skin texture, light pigmentation marks. BHAs (salicylic) are oil-soluble and penetrate into the pores — perfect against excess sebum and blackheads. PHAs, with a larger molecule, exfoliate more gently — often better tolerated by reactive skin.

When to choose AHAs

If your goal is to bring back radiance or refine skin texture, AHAs are a good starting point. Glycolic acid is the most "active" but also the most likely to tingle; lactic acid is more comfortable and better supports hydration.

When to choose BHAs

If you recognise yourself in quick shine, visible pores or blackheads, BHA is often the most relevant — it works right where sebum builds up.

COSRX AHA/BHA Clarifying Treatment Toner
COSRX AHA/BHA Clarifying Treatment Toner 28,90 € View product →
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When to choose PHAs

If your skin reacts quickly, feels tight easily or you're a complete beginner, PHAs may be the smartest choice. The results are less spectacular at first, but the benefit lies elsewhere: more consistency, less risk of irritation.

BENTON PHA Peeling Gel
BENTON — Gentle PHA PHA Peeling Gel 2-in-1 Gradual exfoliation that respects the skin barrier. 28,90 € View product 🛒 Add

AHA, BHA or PHA for your skin type

Dry, dull skin: AHAs have the edge, or a gentle lactic acid if your skin is also sensitive. Oily, blemish-prone skin: BHA remains the benchmark. Combination skin: AHA for radiance, BHA for a congested T-zone. Sensitive skin: PHA is the most reassuring — calm skin progresses better than over-stimulated skin.

How to add them without irritating your skin

The most common mistake isn't choosing the wrong acid — it's going too fast. Start with two to three applications a week, in the evening, on clean, dry skin.

A signal to respect: a slight, brief tingle, fine. A burning sensation or persistent redness, no — cut back or stop.

And of course, daytime sun protection is non-negotiable. Exfoliated skin is more vulnerable to UV.

🎯 In short, choose...
Key takeaways
  • All three acids exfoliate, but at different depths and intensities.
  • AHA = radiance and texture. BHA = pores and sebum. PHA = gentleness and tolerance.
  • The right pace is the one your skin tolerates over several weeks, not the most ambitious one on paper.
  • SPF is essential as soon as you introduce an exfoliating acid.
  • The best exfoliant isn't the strongest — it's the one you use consistently.

At Haru & Bom, we help you find the acid that truly suits your skin, not the trendiest one. Discover our exfoliants →

Haru & Bom Your K-beauty boutique · For information only
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